A3 Single Breasted
3 quick facts
1. Taking inspiration from the naval reefer jacket (a close version on the modern pea coats), they were mostly worn for leisure and sports, and was in fact banned by many businesses as inappropriate.
2. In between the two World Wars, it quickly lost its casual appeal, and popularized by endorsers like the Duke of Windsor, it reached its apogee between the financial and entrepreneurial elitès.
3. Nowadays, the double breasted is experiencing a second youth between the menswear enthusiasts.
The “Florentine cut” paired with the DB configuration evokes the heyday of Italian Tailoring, when the golden generation of civic tailors were competing on the stage of “Forbici d’oro” contest in Sanremo.
According to the Italian costume historian Vittoria de Buzzaccarini (“Giacche da uomo”, Zanfi editore, Modena,1994, pag.68) the double breasted dinner jacket was indeed something entirely conceived in Florence around 1920s by the tailor Roberto Maltagliati, who successfully acting a sort of semantic shift, turned the double breasted buttons configuration, then intended mainly for military and nautical purpose, into something of the highest rank of formalism.Our own version of DB is a complex game of lines, inclinations and proportions culminating in a well distinguished garment that willingly gave up everything bodily to fully handle the quality of thoughts of the wearer.