A3 Single Breasted
3 quick facts
1. Taking inspiration from the naval reefer jacket (a close version on the modern pea coats), they were mostly worn for leisure and sports, and was in fact banned by many businesses as inappropriate.
2. In between the two World Wars, it quickly lost its casual appeal, and popularized by endorsers like the Duke of Windsor, it reached its apogee between the financial and entrepreneurial elitès.
3. Nowadays, the double breasted is experiencing a second youth between the menswear enthusiasts.
The “Florentine cut” paired with the DB configuration evokes the heyday of Italian Tailoring, when the golden generation of civic tailors were competing on the stage of “Forbici d’oro” contest in Sanremo.
According to the Italian costume historian Vittoria de Buzzaccarini (“Giacche da uomo”, Zanfi editore, Modena,1994, pag.68) the double breasted dinner jacket was indeed something entirely conceived in Florence around 1920s by the tailor Roberto Maltagliati, who successfully acting a sort of semantic shift, turned the double breasted buttons configuration, then intended mainly for military and nautical purpose, into something of the highest rank of formalism.
Our own version of DB is a complex game of lines, inclinations and proportions culminating in a well distinguished garment that willingly gave up everything bodily to fully handle the quality of thoughts of the wearer.About the Florentine
Jacket
Technicalities
- 6X2 buttons configuration
- Peak lapel
- Unpadded shoulder with rollino
- 4 buttons at the sleeves
- Besom pockets without flaps
- 2 side vents
- Fine edge stitching
- Lining with 2 upper pockets and only one lower on the left
As you like it
- Without side vents ( only for suits fabrics of an higher rank of formality)
- Besom pockets with flaps ( suits and Sport jackets)
- Ticket pocket with flaps ( suits and Sport jackets)
- 3 patch pockets ( sport suits and sport jackets. On the DB is possible only with the 4x2 buttoning configuration)
- 2 patch pockets on the sides and welt breast pocket
- 2 pick-stitched pockets on the sides and welt breast pocket ( only with half lined or unlined jacket. “Unlined jacket” in our vocabulary means “ half lined jacket + unlined sleeves)
- Half lined body ( with lined sleeve)
- Unlined sleeves ( according to the materials used)
- Swelled edges ( sport jackets and cotton/linen suit)